Burberry's Spring/Summer 2018 collection marked a significant moment in the brand's history, a pivot point under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci. This collection attempted to reconcile Burberry's heritage with a contemporary, youthful aesthetic, utilizing iconic elements like the check pattern in bold new ways while also introducing fresh design languages. However, the transition wasn't without its challenges, prompting a closer examination of the brand's iconic check and its place in the evolving luxury landscape. This article will delve into the key aspects of Burberry SS18, analyzing its successes and shortcomings, exploring the history of the Nova Check, and examining the specific problems associated with its implementation in this collection.
Burberry SS18: A Visual Feast and a Conceptual Conundrum
The imagery associated with Burberry SS18 showcased a vibrant, almost chaotic energy. The collection featured a distinct juxtaposition of classic Burberry elements—primarily the iconic check—with streetwear influences and a bold, graphic aesthetic. The images provided—a boxy-fit blazer in Vintage check wool, a Honey stretch modal-silk turtleneck top, and Amber yellow graffiti Vintage check print leggings—perfectly exemplify this fusion. The combination of the structured blazer, the soft turtleneck, and the unexpectedly vibrant leggings demonstrates the collection's attempt to blend formality with a playful, modern edge. This approach, however, presented a complex challenge: how to maintain the luxury brand's heritage while appealing to a younger, more streetwear-oriented demographic.
While the bold use of color and the layering of textures created visually striking ensembles, the conceptual coherence of the collection remained a point of contention. The SS18 collection arguably lacked a unifying theme beyond the reimagining of the Burberry check. While the individual pieces were often striking, the overall collection felt somewhat disjointed, lacking a cohesive narrative that could fully articulate Tisci’s vision for the brand's future.
Burberry Nova Check History: A Legacy Reimagined
Understanding the context of Burberry SS18 requires delving into the history of the Nova Check, a pattern synonymous with the brand. The now-iconic check, originally known as the Haymarket Check, was designed in the early 20th century. Its initial purpose was primarily functional: it was a durable, easily recognizable pattern used for lining trench coats, providing a distinct identity for the brand. Over time, however, the check evolved beyond its utilitarian origins, becoming a powerful symbol of British heritage and luxury.
The evolution of the check itself reflects Burberry's journey. Variations emerged, with different color palettes and scales, yet the core pattern remained instantly recognizable. The Nova Check, a specific iteration of this pattern, became particularly prominent, appearing across a wide range of products, from scarves and bags to ready-to-wear garments. This evolution reflects the brand's strategic decisions to leverage its heritage while adapting to changing consumer preferences. Tisci's SS18 collection consciously engaged with this legacy, aiming to both celebrate and subvert the established use of the Nova Check.
Burberry Check Pattern: A Symbol Under Scrutiny
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